Things to do in Esquel & Great Day Trips You Should Consider!

What are the best things to do in Esquel, and which day trips are actually worth building into your Patagonia itinerary?

The town of Esquel is situated in the northwestern end of the Province of Chubut, right at the foot of the Andes Mountain Range. After spending time here across multiple trips, it has become one of those Patagonia bases we keep coming back to!

We first came to Esquel because we wanted to ride the Old Patagonian Express, but the town ended up surprising us with how much there was to do beyond the train. We hiked up to Laguna La Zeta, biked to Laguna Willmanco, tackled Cerro de la Cruz for panoramic views, ate our way through a few favourite local restaurants, and used Esquel as a base for day trips to Los Alerces National Park, Trevelin and Piedra Parada.

If you’re an active traveller who enjoys nature, hiking, and the quieter corners of Patagonia, Esquel is well worth adding to your route. You could easily spend a week here and have a different adventure each day, so in this travel guide, we’re sharing our favourite things to do in Esquel, plus the day trips we think are most worth considering.

In short, Esquel needs to be on your list of places to visit in Patagonia.

Things to do in Esquel, Argentina

If you’re wondering what to do in Esquel, we’ve got you covered with this list of attractions in town and nearby. We’ve been fortunate enough to visit this city during different times of year, and we’re always discovering new attractions and things we missed the first time around.

Old Patagonian Express

The main reason I wanted to visit Esquel was to travel aboard the Old Patagonian Express. This one attraction is what first piqued my interest in the town!

Known as La Trochita in Spanish, this historic narrow-gauge train dates back to 1935, and it’s one of the most iconic train journeys you can go on in all of Argentina.

It was made famous by Paul Theroux’s 1979 novel The Old Patagonian Express, which I read many years ago. In it, he recounts his travels from his hometown in Massachusetts all the way down to Argentina by train.

Originally, the Old Patagonian Express railway stretched out across 402 kilometres, however, today only three shorter segments of the original route can be travelled by tourists. We have actually travelled all three! That’s how committed I was to this train experience.

The most popular of these three segments is the one that departs from Esquel to Nahuel Pan. And I can also confirm that this is the most scenic of the three segments. You get really nice mountain views as you ascend out of the valley and travel up into the Patagonian steppe.

The train station is located right in town, so we just walked over and bought our tickets in person. Just keep in mind that the train can sell out during high season, so if you’re not staying in Esquel, it might be better to book the experience through a tour operator.

As for the trip itself, we enjoyed the one-hour journey to Nahuel Pan, then spent 45 minutes at the Museum of Patagonian Culture, and browsed the artisanal market. They were selling choripán and alfajores, so we ended up having a small meal before the return journey.

This is a half-day activity, so you still have plenty of time to see a bit of Esquel when you’re done with the train ride. But I would say this is the one attraction that you don’t want to miss if you’re coming all the way here.

Laguna La Zeta

We also visited Laguna La Zeta. This is a natural urban reserve on the outskirts of town, and the lagoon gets its name from the Z-shaped trail that zig-zags up the mountain.

You can reach Laguna La Zeta by car (10 minutes) or on foot (1 hour). We hiked up to the lagoon, but in retrospect, it would have been much better to take a taxi and then do this trail that loops around the lagoon.

The important thing to know is that it’s a steep gravel road to the lagoon that hikers share with vehicles. We found it a bit dusty every time a car zipped by, and we also had to be mindful and stay to the side. Towards the end of the hike, the trail deviates into the forest, so we got to enjoy a bit of peace and serenity.

Once we reached Laguna La Zeta, we noticed kayak and canoe rentals, as well as horseback riding excursions. Plus, there were people enjoying a swim at the beach and stopping to admire the view from the pavilion. This is a nice spot to pack a picnic and enjoy a chill afternoon!

Cerro La Cruz

As you can probably tell, hiking is one of the main things to do in Esquel, and one of the many hikes we tackled was Cerro La Cruz or Mount of the Cross.

This trail takes about 1.5 hours each way, is medium-level difficulty, and reaches a maximum altitude of 1,050 metres.

This is a steep hike, but there are lookouts along the way, so you can stop to rest and enjoy the panoramic views as you work your way to the top. We chose a very windy day, which was not smart, so we had to turn back shy of the summit, but it was still an enjoyable hike.

There are two main access points to hike Cerro de la Cruz. You can go via Barrio Baden on the east end of town (which is what we did) or Barrio Ceferino on the west end.

Bike to Laguna Willmanco

Another fun activity we enjoyed in Esquel was biking out to Laguna Willmanco. We were fortunate enough that our accommodations offered free bikes, however, there are also bike rental shops in town if you need to go that route.

I’m not going to lie, it was a steep and challenging ride out of town! You have to follow the road that leads up to the ski resort, so as you can imagine, it’s uphill most of the way. It’s an 8-kilometre journey round-trip and there were a few sections where we had to get off our bikes, but it was well worth the effort.

Once we reached the white gate, we turned down a dirt road and rode towards the lagoon. The water was crystal clear, there were cows roaming around, and the mountain backdrop looked epic.

We loved it even on a grey, overcast day. I can only imagine what it looks like when the sun is shining!

Horse trek at Estancia Huemules

Another one of my favourite memories from Esquel is the day we went horse trekking at Estancia Huemules. This estancia is set in a nature reserve 23 kilometres from the city of Esquel and it’s a slice of paradise!

We just so happened to visit during peak autumn foliage and riding through the forest was a dream. We rode under a canopy of gold, and when we reached a clearing, we were able to see the mountain draped in shades of burgundy, pumpkin and ochre. During that ride I just kept thinking, how is this landscape real?

This, in my opinion, is one of the more epic things to do in Esquel and you can experience rugged nature without travelling too far.

All I can say is that we loved our day trip to Huemules Estancia de Montaña, and next time, I hope to actually stay the night! They were under renovation when we were there, but that’s something to look forward to.

Day trips from Esquel

Now that we’ve covered what there is to see and do in Esquel, let’s move on to the day trips. And there are a lot to choose from!

Esquel is the gateway to numerous attractions in the Province of Chubut and the surrounding landscapes are pretty epic.

Los Alerces National Park

First up, we have a day trip to Los Alerces National Park. This park is set in the Andes Mountains of northern Patagonia and its western boundary is the Chilean border.

The park consists of Valdivian forest and is home to hanging glaciers, snowcapped mountains, and lakes and rivers that shift from turquoise to emerald. Los Alerces is my favourite national park in northern Patagonia and one that I have visited multiple times via all its entry points.

Some of the park highlights include trekking to the Torrecillas Glacier, kayaking on the Río Arrayanes, cruising the waters of Lake Menéndez, and seeing the grandfather Alerce tree that is over 2,600 years old!

There is a lot to visit in Los Alerces National Park, so I would recommend spending the whole day there, if you can. This full-day tour covers some of the main points of interest in the park, like the Arrayanes River, Irigoyen Waterfall and Puerto Chucao, so it’s ideal for a first-time visit.

Piedra Parada

A popular day trip from Esquel is to Piedra Parada, which literally translates to ‘standing rock’.

This is a protected natural area made up of 132 hectares, and it gets its name from the giant rock that rises 240 metres in the middle of the Patagonian steppe. It almost looks a little bit sci-fi!

We had no idea this place existed prior to visiting Esquel. We ended up booking this tour on a whim because it’s what was available at the last minute, and we were not disappointed. You can imagine our faces, when we reached this otherworldly landscape!

If you visit Piedra Parada as part of an organized tour, you’ll have a guide to share the history of the place, you’ll enjoy a picnic by the river’s edge, and do some hiking (it’s relatively flat, so nothing too strenuous). There is a trail that leads into Vulture’s Canyon, where you can see ancient cave paintings.

This area is also considered a rock climbing mecca, so if you’re into the sport, you can arrange a day trip to Piedra Parada that involves some rock climbing.

Trevelin

If you want to dive into Welsh culture in Patagonia, Trevelin is another day trip from Esquel to consider. It’s only a 30-minute drive, and it can be done by local bus or taxi.

This town was founded by Welsh immigrants, and its name means ‘mill town’, named so after the first flour mill established in 1891. It sits on the banks of the Percy River, and it has a very relaxed feel with mountain views to the west.

Some of Trevelin’s highlights include visiting the tulip farm (in the springtime), enjoying a Welsh afternoon tea, going to the Andes Mill Museum, visiting local wineries (we love Casa Yagüe!), and touring the Nant Fach Mill, where you can learn more about the history of Welsh immigration to Patagonia.

This is a super easy day trip, so it’s my top pick if you don’t want to go super far from Esquel.

Cholila

Another Esquel day trip to consider is to the town of Cholila. This town was made famous by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, two American train and bank robbers who ended up hiding out in Patagonia.

They bought a ranch in Cholila, which is about as out of the way as you can get, and changed their names in hopes of starting a new life.

Long story short, they were eventually tracked down, but their ranch in Cholila still stands.

Cholila is also very famous for hosting the biggest BBQ in all of Argentina. It happens every other year, so look up Fiesta Nacional del Asado to see if your visit overlaps.

La Hoya Ski Hill

Finally, if you’re travelling to Patagonia in the wintertime and you want to enjoy a bit of skiing and snowboarding, you can do so near Esquel.

The main ski centre there is La Hoya, which is a 30-minute drive north of town.

You can rent gear, book passes, or sign up for ski and snowboarding lessons all on their website.

Where to stay in Esquel

Hotel Sol del Sur – This centrally located hotel offers panoramic mountain views and a continental breakfast.

Departamentos Ailen – For those who prefer self-catering accommodations, this apartment in a quiet residential neighbourhood does the trick. (It’s where we stayed on our first visit!)

El Coiron Aparts – You can book at their main guesthouse (where we’ve also stayed), or the Scandinavian-inspired cabins on the outskirts of town which offer an ideal setting for those looking for a quiet escape.

Where to eat in Esquel

Like almost anywhere else in Argentina, you’re never too far from pizza and pasta. These are some of the places we ate at in Esquel:

Don Chiquino

For pastas, the most popular option in town is Don Chiquino. You choose your sauce and pasta to customize the dish just how you like it.

This is our favourite restaurant in Esquel and we’ve eaten here many times over the years, both at their old location and their new, more centrally located location.

I’m a big fan of their sorrentinos with walnuts, ricotta and mushrooms. The dish is pure perfection!

For dessert, you cannot go wrong with the Andean mousse featuring chocolate mousse, whipped cream, dulce de leche, chocolate shavings and walnuts.

You’ll need a nap after all that food!

Maria Castaña

If you’re looking to treat yourself to a big breakfast or indulge your sweet tooth for afternoon tea, then you need to visit Maria Castaña.

They know how to do cakes, pies and tarts, and it’s honestly kind of hard deciding what to order because everything looks so good! You can treat yourself to a specialty coffee and something sweet.

This is another spot we have visited many times both for breakfast and merienda, the Argentine equivalent of afternoon tea.

Fitzroya Pizza

If you’re craving pizza, head straight to Fitzroya. They have the classics, but they also get really inventive with some of their toppings. Plus, they let you order half and half if you can’t decide on one thing.

We ate there a few times and even tried their ‘jamón a caballo’ pizza, which featured bacon and fried eggs. We haven’t found a pizza like that since!

Alto Pollo

Food by the weight is a popular lunchtime option in Argentina. At Alto Pollo, you can choose what you feel like eating and exactly how much.

It’s a serve-yourself setting, so grab a container, load it up, weigh it and pay. They have a nice variety of meats, pastas, beans and salads.

This is a nice option if you’re in between activities and you don’t have time for a long sit-down meal at a restaurant.

We bought food here several times when we weren’t in the mood to go out for a long restaurant meal.

How to get to Esquel

If you’re arriving by air, you can fly into the Esquel Airport (EQS). Flights are operated by the national airline Aerolineas Argentina a few days a week and they all go through Buenos Aires.

Another way to get to Esquel is by bus. There are multiple connections across Patagonia, including plenty of overnight buses to some further away destinations. You have all the major regional bus operators like Mar y Valle, Don Otto, Via Bariloche, Transporte Jacobsen, and Etap. So wherever you’re coming from, there’s a bus to Esquel!

If you prefer to have a bit more control over your schedule, then you can rent a car to get around Esquel and the surrounding area. You can book one at the Esquel Airport or one of the numerous car rental agencies across town.